Backpacking in Samoa
Even though Samoa is not a famous destination and most people haven’t heard of it, let me tell you that it has a lot to say about it. At the time I was living in New Zealand, the winter was deadly windy and cold, and all I wanted was a few days on the beach. I looked for flights everywhere close by, which is not a lot by the way, given how isolated NZ is. Anyway, I found this flight to Apia, the capital of Samoa, and the price couldn’t be ignored. I just bought it!
Obviously I didn’t have time to plan anything, which is always nice because you have the freedom to do whatever comes to mind at the moment, but it’s also scary sometimes, especially when you’re arriving in a complete underdeveloped country at 4 in the morning.
First thing I did was finding a place to crash until next morning and then figure out what to do. Luckily I made friends in the plane, which I ended up with during the whole trip, that told me to get a bus to Lalumano, the tip of the Upolu island. Because there had been a tsunami there not long ago and everything was destroyed, there was only one place to stay, where all backpackers were.
In Samoa, there are no hostels or hotels; you always stay in what they call Beach Fales, which are small huts on the beach with a ceiling but no walls. I know it sounds uncomfortable, but I swear I’ve never slept so well in my life; the sound of the waves put me to sleep in two seconds and the summer breeze felt really nice. These fales are usually owned by Samoan families that host some tourists (there’s not a lot in Samoa) as a way to make some money.
Lalumano |
Once I got to Lalumano, they asked me for 50 talas (12€) in exchange for a fale, breakfast and coffee all day. Then they pointed to a banana tree and said I could help my self to some bananas as well, hilarious! The toilets were on the other side of the road, which meant that you have to cross the “highway” everytime you needed to pee. Peeing in the company of a tarantula wasn’t something unusual but you’re fine with it because all that matters is that you’re sleeping at an amazingly beautiful beach surrounded by nice people!
Sundays are kind of a sacred day in Samoa, everyone is supposed to go to church and no one can work, it’s forbidden (can you believe it?!)! Every mass lasts for 3 hours and the last one is when they sing all these typical chants. We ended up going to this last hour and I had a great time. Obviously I didn’t understand a word of what they were saying but it was nice to see something so characteristic of the country and it was a good opportunity to meet some Samoans. They were very friendly and took us for a walk around the island afterwards. To get to the village we had to go all the way up the mountain by car and on the way we passed by several houses and fales completely destroyed by the tsunami. We ended up in visiting this huge house on the top of the hill; it was Tai’s house. Tai was the chief of Lalumano and, as he told us, he was responsible for the lives of everyone in the village. For that reason this extravagant house with a breathtaking view over the forest and the beach was meant to shelter everyone in case another tsunami happened.
After a few days in Lalumano, I moved on to another place called Manase. This was on the other island, Savai’I, so we had to catch a bus and ferry to get there. Travelling in Samoan buses is a once in a lifetime experience; these colorful old vans took double the people they were allowed to, plus all kinds of provisions. I remember travelling on top of rice bags with a friend on top of me!
Manase |
Manase had a lot more places to stay in, I ended up in the on that seemed more fun. There were only young people and there was a show of Samoan dances planned for that night, performed by the hosting family. So I stayed and never wanted to leave again. I saw the most fascinating sunsets I’ve ever seen, and at night there were endless shooting stars passing by at every second. This was also a nice place to scuba dive or snorkel.
Once again, some days later we moved on to the next stop, the Last Sunset of the World. Its name is due to the fact that it’s literally the last place on the planet to watch the sunset. In Samoa, even though it was only a 2-hour difference form New Zealand, it was almost a full day behind (22 hours), so I left New Zealand on a Saturday to arrive in Samoa the Friday before (crazy!).
Anyway, this place was completely isolated and there was no one there. I got a little scared so I decided to leave right after the sunset and went back to Manase for one more night. Imagine how great the place was to make me wanna go back! On the next day we moved on to Lano, another nice beach place where we stayed with a very nice family with funny small kids. Here we found the best fales on the island, right by the sea with sheets that were actually washed.
Beach Fales |
For the last nights before going back, we all decided to go back to the main Island, Upolu, and stay in Maninoa. To get there we caught another bus called Prison Break (I forgot to mention the buses had names) and then the ferry again. This was a place for surfers, located between two very nice hotels (probably the only ones on the island). It was a nice place as well, but not as beautiful as the other ones.
Samoa is definitely a place to visit. It’s incredibly cheap and every beach is stunning. The culture is deeply evident on the people and easily to get curious about it. Even though the country is very poor and everyone lives off of what the soil gives them, the people are beyond nice and friendly, they’re very good hosts and extremely generous. Samoa gave me two amazing weeks, full of unforgettable moments.
Really nice description! I want to go there! 🙂
You should 🙂
Heyy, sounds sweet! make me wanna go to samoa even more! just wondered where you put your backpacks when you stayed in the fales?
Hey!! I always left my backpack inside the fale. It’s really safe to leave your stuff there, people are extremely honest. I remember in one of the places I stayed, if I hadn’t mention paying, they would have let me leave without asking for anything..that’s how carefree they are about money!! so don’t worry, really! 🙂
Hi, what’s the names of the accommodation you would recommend? Thanks
Hey Kelly!!
I honestly don’t remember the names of the places..but I’ll try to find out!!
Hi, when staying in the fales at night… what’s like for personal security, if I’m a girl travelling alone?
Hey Tash! Don’t worry it’s really not dangerous at all..just don’t stay for the night at the place they call “the last sunset of the world”..i was there but didnt sleep because it was too quiet and people were weird. All other places it’s fine, don’t worry!! 🙂
Cool, thanks heaps!
This sounds fantastic, my boyfriend is travelling through Samoa now, do you still have any contacts for places that you stayed in?
I don’t have contacts Liza, but it’s pretty easy once you get there! 🙂
Hey Catarina ! 🙂
A friend of mine has been to Samoa as well, it seems really amazing. I read a bit about this place, but it seems that the prices have increased a lot right ? I can’t find any accommodation on the net under 45-50$/night.
Xx
Hey Erika! Samoa is really amazing. I’ve been there 4 years ago so I don’t know how the prices are right now. But I didn’t book anything online, I think the best way is to get there and find some beach fales in each place you go. It will be cheaper and you will find many places that most likely are not online. You pay probably around 10-15€ a night.
Hey Catarina, this sounds so amazing I’m planning on going to Samoa for a month! I’ll be backpacking too and I just wanted an idea on budget? Of course the value of tala has increased but how much do you think you spent while you were there? xx
Hey Laur, I dont remember precisely but I think you’ll be fine with 20/25€ a day 🙂
Hey Cata! Laur again haha thanks so much! I was just wondering when you slept in fales what did you sleep with? A few places online are showing fales with beds, did you just use a sleeping bag or a few blankets and did you light any mosquito coils or need to?
Hey Laurel! The fales always have matresses and bed sheets. You won’t need any sleeping bag or blanket because it’s usually super hot. Mosquito spray might be a good idea actually, I forgot mine and I would have been much better if I had it.
I am just wondering when you was in Samoa? The reason I ask is there some hostels and even resorts there now. That was a surprise to read.
Hey Peter,
I was in Samoa 7 years ago, it’s been a long time. Happy to know that there are new things coming up now 🙂